Roberto Capucci
1930 - Present
Biography
In 1930, Roberto Capucci was born in Rome. From 1947 to 1950 he attended the Liceo Artistico and the Accademia di Belle Arti from. Capucci had an apprenticeship with Emilio Schuberth. After opening his first couture house in Rome in 1950, at the young age of 20 year old, he became known as a prodige of the Italian fashion. In 1951, Capucci had his first international debut. G. B. Giorgini began trying to help Italian talent gain exposure internationally. Invited, by Giorgini, to show five outfits at the closing ball. However, other couturiers refuse to show with him, saying that he was too young and inexperienced. Gorginis’ wife and daughter wore Capucci’s designs to that evenings closing presentation and ball. Capucci was still allowed him to show his collection at Gorginis’ home, at which everything sold. In 1952, Capucci was finally allowed to show with the high-fashion group. He was featured in his first American magazine, Vogue, in 1952. In 1980, he resigns from the Italian Chamber of High Fashion and started designing when he wanted to and putting on fashion shows when he wanted to. That same year he created the "Ventaglio"(seen below), which was a symbol of free creativity and experimental search (Fondazione Roberto Capucci).
Critical Analysis
Up until know the majority of couturiers came out of Paris, however during this time period WWII had just ended and many Paris fashion houses had closed because of the Nazis limiting the amount of fabric a couturier is allowed to use. This allowed designers from other parts of the world (i.e. Italy) to flourish. Roberto Capucci was one of these designers, and some even consider him one of the fathers of Italian fashion. The press said Capucci was Italy's best designer, applauding his "vigor, imagination, and uninhibited originality" (Philadelphia Museum of Art). apucci was inspired by art, architecture, nature and his Italian heritage and he referred to his work as a ‘study form’. His designs are one of a kind, because he never made any duplicates of them. Capucci was not only a designer, but also an architect and sculptor. Like Paul Poiret bridged fashion and interior design, Capucci bridged fashion and sculpture. He is known for his sculpture dresses, which are truly mesmerizing, and like nothing you have ever seen before. While most will agree that his designs are not wearable, but there is no denying that his designs are pure masterpieces. Roberto Capucci's designs are unique, colorful, playful and absolutely exquisite. Italian art is known for its rich color schemes and Capucci stays very true to this. Every Capucci design you see you name its deigned instantly. He used various pops of color while incorporating different seams and folds. The detail and work that went into his garments is mind-blowing. While many are inspired by this man there has never been another.
Future Analysis
Capucci contributed many things to the fashion world, including the ‘dove line’, the ‘banjo line’, the ‘box line’ and the ‘Colonna’ silhouette. Vogue said it best in 1952, “Easily Italy’s most promising young designer…the clothes, if too costumey, at least are completely original and full of idea" (Blum). The famous Italian actress/model Elsa Martinelli even credits Capucci for her signature gamin look. One contribute that everyone can take away from him is his drive. Even when people doubted him saying that he was young and inexperienced, he kept pushing and in the end he proved them wrong.There is a museum, located in Florence Italy, that was founded in 2005 in honor or Roberto Capucci. The museum is called Fondazione Roberto Capucci, and they are founded this museum to preserve and promote knowlegde of Capucci's work. The 'Box Line' became a characteristic symbol of all Capucci's career, evolving throughout the years(Fondazione Roberto Capucci).
Works Cited
Blum, Dilys E. Roberto Capucci: Art into Fashion . Philadephia: Yale University Press, 2011.
Da Cruz, Elyssa. "Made in Italy: Italian Fashion from 1950 to Now". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/itfa/hd_itfa.htm (October 2004)
Fondazione Roberto Capucci. Foundation. 15 September 2005. 27 August 2013 <http://www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com/fondazione_en.htm>.
Jones, Kevin L. and Christina M. Johnson. Fabulous: Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010. Los Angeles: FIDM Museum Press, 2011.
Philadelphia Museum of Art. Art Into Fashion: Roberto Capucci. 17 August 2013 <http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/411.html>.
The Curated Object. EXHIBITION PHILADELPHIA. ART INTO FASHION: ROBERTO CAPUCCI. THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART. THE CURATED OBJECT. 2011. 27 August 2013 <http://www.curatedobject.us/the_curated_object_/2011/05/exhibition-philadelphia-art-into-fashion-roberto-capucci-the-philadelphia-museum-of-art-the-curated-.html>.
Vogue. Advertisement: Parce Que (Parfums Capucci). 1 May 1969. 20 August 2013 <http://search.proquest.com.subscriptions.fidm.com/vogue/docview/904340844/pageview/1400EA9871D564D30AD/1?accountid=42534>.
Blum, Dilys E. Roberto Capucci: Art into Fashion . Philadephia: Yale University Press, 2011.
Da Cruz, Elyssa. "Made in Italy: Italian Fashion from 1950 to Now". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/itfa/hd_itfa.htm (October 2004)
Fondazione Roberto Capucci. Foundation. 15 September 2005. 27 August 2013 <http://www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com/fondazione_en.htm>.
Jones, Kevin L. and Christina M. Johnson. Fabulous: Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010. Los Angeles: FIDM Museum Press, 2011.
Philadelphia Museum of Art. Art Into Fashion: Roberto Capucci. 17 August 2013 <http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/411.html>.
The Curated Object. EXHIBITION PHILADELPHIA. ART INTO FASHION: ROBERTO CAPUCCI. THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART. THE CURATED OBJECT. 2011. 27 August 2013 <http://www.curatedobject.us/the_curated_object_/2011/05/exhibition-philadelphia-art-into-fashion-roberto-capucci-the-philadelphia-museum-of-art-the-curated-.html>.
Vogue. Advertisement: Parce Que (Parfums Capucci). 1 May 1969. 20 August 2013 <http://search.proquest.com.subscriptions.fidm.com/vogue/docview/904340844/pageview/1400EA9871D564D30AD/1?accountid=42534>.